Thursday, August 29, 2013

Tree Trimming

Most days living as an American abroad are much like living as an American at home.  Running errands, cooking dinner, spending time with friends.  Most days are unremarkable.  Then there are days when you notice something and it sticks in your mind.

This morning I welcomed the head embassy gardener, A., and one of his colleagues into our yard to look at the trees.  I love the trees in our yard but half a dozen of them have sagging limbs hanging over our roof.  A. was quite concerned that the trees would start dropping their branches when the rains start in October.  He frowned and confided, “I’m afraid the roof is made of asbestos, so we don’t want anything to damage it.”  I returned a sarcastic “great!” and we shared a little chuckle.  Ah, the joys of living in an old house.

We continued around to the back of the house where I pointed out some more branches that should come down.  Now, these were not in-danger-of-causing-us-cancer branches, but they were dropping too many little yellow flowers into the pool.  Those branches have been the constant enemy of our terrific gardener Chrispin (or just Chris).  A. agreed that those too should go.

Within minutes I had convinced the guard to let the tree trimming crew into the yard – Chris would supervise their work.  A. gave them a speech about the US government worrying about their safety and how they should always wear their harnesses when climbing up the trees.  He also told them that if they died on the job, he would come back and kill them himself.  More chuckles all around.



Once the trimmers set about their work, A. and I started talking.  It came up in conversation that I teach history.  He told me that he was never very good in history but still remembers quite a bit of what they learned in school.  He said that when he was growing up the Zambian education system was very focused on America and Europe.  He smiled sadly as he remembered knowing more about Detroit than he did about Lusaka.  He memorized the population, the climate, and the history of a city that few Americans even think about these days.

His colleague then said that she is always surprised and a little offended when Americans give her background information on an event from American history.  With a wide-eyed laugh she said “I learned all of that in secondary school!”.  I tried to make her feel better by admitting that Americans probably do that because they figure other people know as little about our history as we do theirs.  She nodded as if she thought I could be on to something.

Then A. asked us if we had heard President Obama’s speech commemorating the 5oth anniversary of the March on Washington on the radio last night.  I told him I had and was curious to hear what he thought of it.  He beamed as he talked about our (America’s) lofty ideals and how we seem to always want to improve upon our past.  And about how he thinks President Obama will be better appreciated once he leaves office.  He said it was too bad, but that is often what happens with leaders, especially those gifted at public speaking.


That’s what I can’t get out of my head.  This man, in Lusaka, Zambia, has thought so much about American history.  I just wish that our students would learn a little bit more about people beyond our borders.

Monday, August 26, 2013

Ballroom Dancing

We found it on Google Earth as soon as we got the email.  It amazes me that such a small road has been mapped, photographed even, and is accessible to anyone in the world.  How is it possible that I was able to type in an address for a plot in Lusaka, Zambia and look at it from my living room in Washington, DC? 

However surprising it seemed, Matt and I were able to see our neighborhood before either of us ever set foot in this country.  We knew that we had a three bedroom house with a yard and a pool.  We had seen a few pictures of the house, empty between residents.  We were thrilled!   

Apparently the house is in the British colonial style: single story with long, dark rooms, a sizable kitchen complete with breakfast nook, and a laundry room the size of our last apartment.  Our living room is nice but oddly shaped.  We have a beautiful stone fireplace in the center that divides a sitting area from the dining room.  And then there is room for another sitting area.  And then a third.  I am finding it difficult to imagine how I will arrange things once our household effects arrive but look forward to spending hours on Pinterest for ideas.  How many seating areas can one room have?   A woman who came in to measure for curtains suggested that I use the space for ballroom dance lessons.  She might be right; too bad I am not that kind of teacher. 

Compared to the rest of the house, the bedrooms are fairly small but are still larger than most I've had in my life.  There are two built in closets with a walk-in as well.  Is the house challenging me to acquire more clothing?  We’ll see.   

While I am very happy with the inside, I love the outside of the house best.  I spend most afternoons sitting under our metal awning on the stone veranda.  I read, drink coffee, and throw balls for the dog to chase.  It is a nice way to pass the time.  As he is infinitely more knowledgeable on the topic, I will leave it to Matt describe the vegetation and wildlife.


This is our third Monday in Lusaka and we are starting to fall in to routines.  This house feels more like home every day.  A gigantic, charming, home.

Monday, August 19, 2013

Prithvi's Excellent Adventure

Bleary-eyed from lack of sleep, I hurried to finish my coffee before my ride beeped at the gate.  The coffee was nice and strong but surprisingly smooth.  I hadn’t slept well the night before thanks to jet lag and worry about my little dog making her way to Zambia on her own.  Needless to say, I wanted to be ready the moment the expeditor from the embassy arrived to take me to the airport to pick up Prithvi.  I suspected that he would be a little later than the 6:15am time we had arranged but I didn’t want to be late in case he really did show up so early.  

At 6:30 I climbed into his large pick-up truck and quickly fell into conversation with my smiley Zambian colleague.  The city was certainly awake at that time, with many people hurrying along dirt tracks next to the roads as they made their way to work.  Even those working in the service industry as gardeners or housekeepers dressed far more nicely than most Americans would.  Ladies wore long skirts, high heels, and smart jackets whereas the men wore nice pants and pressed button-down shirts.  One exception was a young man proudly wearing a t-shirt that read “Git-R-Done”; no doubt a charity donation from the US.

Up the road the sun began to rise at a faster pace than I have ever seen.  The sky transformed from a foggy lavender to the vibrant orange sun depicted in the opening scene of The Lion King.  Lusaka is not a huge city and it seemed as if we were in the countryside within five minutes.  My companion told me that the country has vast amounts of arable land left empty, which was evident as we drove along the open road to the airport.  He was a great conversationalist so we jumped from topic to topic.  Thankfully, his easy manner took my mind off of my nerves about the dog. 

Prithvi’s journey to Zambia was a complicated one.  US-based airlines restrict the shipment of animals as cargo during the summer heat, so we were not able to check her as excess baggage like we had done when we brought her out of India.  Instead, we had to hire a pet shipper to arrange her travel from Washington.  They handled the reservations with the airline and much of the paperwork on our side of the Atlantic.  The shipping office at the embassy handled the rest, which meant all we had to do was take her to the vet before we left.  Because we arrived in Lusaka on a Saturday night, Prithvi had to follow us a few days later.  The Lusaka airport is much too small to have staff to accept animals on the weekend.  That is why I was out and about so early on a Monday morning.  Prithvi had started her journey on Saturday afternoon when the pet shipper picked her up from the apartment she was staying in with my parents just of of U Street in DC.  From there they took her to Dulles airport for her British Airways flight to Heathrow.  Once in London, she visited the “pet resort” where she had the chance to take a walk, eat, and drink some water before continuing on to Africa. 

When we arrived at the airport we drove directly to BA’s cargo office at the end of the runway.  Although her flight had landed about 30 minutes earlier, Prithvi’s crate was only just unloaded as we pulled up.  I ran to the truck that was carrying her crate and called her name in an embarrassingly high voice.  She looked a little bit shell-shocked but mostly cold from the chilly winter morning.  As soon as the truck stopped, I let her out of the crate and gave her a big hug.  The Zambian men around me chuckled at such a display of affection for a dog but I didn’t care.  Her little wiggles and kisses immediately put me at ease.  My companion handled all of the paperwork with the customs agent as I walked her around the cargo area. 


Within minutes we were finished and back in the car, taking Prithvi to her new home and her very first yard.  My new friend from the embassy looked at me, scratching her behind the ears, and said “you know, Zambians have a difficult time understanding Americans and their dogs”.  I grinned and replied “I know”.   I finally felt like we could start our tour.